Spaghetti alla Puttanesca

How to make it

1. Rinse the capers thoroughly free of salt under cold water and pat them dry with a clean kitchen towel. Press the pits out of the olives with the flat side of a knife and tear the olive flesh into rough pieces. The rough pieces release flavor faster than whole olives would.
   Chef's tip Salt-packed capers hold far more salt than brined ones — a quick pass under the tap isn't enough. Rinse, then taste one: it should be floral and sharp, not just salty.
2. Heat the olive oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-low heat and add the crushed garlic cloves and the crumbled chili. Let them steep in the oil for 2-3 minutes, until the garlic smells sweet and just barely begins to take on color. Keep the heat low, because burnt garlic will make the whole sauce bitter.
   Chef's tip Garlic in warm oil goes from sweet to acrid fast, and there's no rescuing it. Listen for a lazy, quiet sizzle rather than a busy one — if it crackles hard, pull the pan off the heat for a moment.
3. Add the anchovy fillets to the hot oil and mash them with the back of a spoon for 1-2 minutes, until they have completely broken down and the oil has turned cloudy and smells salty. Fish out the garlic cloves and discard them.
4. Toss the rinsed capers and torn olives into the oil and let them heat through for 1 minute, until they turn glossy and smell sharply of salt.
5. Crush the peeled tomatoes between your fingers into the pan and let the sauce simmer uncovered over medium heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring now and then. It's ready when it's dark red and thick enough that a spoon leaves a brief trail on the bottom, and the oil beads red along the edge. Season with salt at the end — it rarely needs more, since the anchovies, capers, and olives already add salt. ⏱ 15 min–20 min
   Chef's tip Keep the sauce at a lazy blip across the surface, and scrape the bottom as you stir. The sugar in the tomatoes catches easily, and once it scorches a bitter note runs through the whole pan.
6. While the sauce simmers, set a large pot with plenty of water over the heat for the pasta and bring it to a boil for about 10 minutes, until it's boiling vigorously. Season the water moderately, not heavily, since the sauce itself is salty. ⏱ 10 min · passive
7. Cook the spaghetti in the boiling water for 8-10 minutes, until it's al dente with a firm bite at the center — it will get one more minute in the sauce afterward. Reserve 1 dl of the cooking water before draining the pasta in a colander. ⏱ 8 min–10 min · passive
   Chef's tip The reserved water is cloudy with starch, and that starch is what makes the sauce cling. Scoop it out before draining — the moment the colander is used, it's gone.
8. Pour the drained spaghetti into the pan with the sauce and toss it over medium heat for 1-2 minutes. Thin it out with a little of the reserved cooking water at a time, until every strand is red and the sauce glides glossily around the pasta without pooling at the bottom of the pan.
   Chef's tip Add the water in splashes and keep the pasta moving; the agitation is what pulls oil and water into a glossy coating rather than a greasy pool. If it looks dull and tight, one more splash.
9. Twirl the pasta into deep plates right away while it's still steaming, and scatter the roughly chopped parsley over the top. Don't put grated cheese on the table — puttanesca is eaten without, since the anchovies, olives, and capers already carry the salt.